Trees frame the streets in Lexington, cool our yards in August, and buffer the crosswinds that sweep off Lake Murray. They also crack sidewalks, threaten roofs, and sometimes lean a little too close to a power line for comfort. If you live in Lexington County or in one of the towns around Columbia, you probably know that removing a tree is not as simple as revving a saw on a Saturday morning. Neighborhood covenants, county ordinances, and utility rules shape what you can and cannot do. The trick is understanding who has authority on your specific lot, how to document your decision, and when to call a professional tree service.
I’ve worked with homeowners, HOAs, and contractors in and around Lexington for years. Some of what follows might save you a fine, an angry letter from your HOA, or a costly mistake with a protected tree. And even if you’re outside the town limits, the same logic applies throughout the Midlands, from Red Bank to Irmo and into the city where a tree service in Columbia SC deals with similar lines and legalities.
Who actually regulates tree removal here
The first step is figuring out which layer of rules applies to your property. Lexington County, incorporated towns, and homeowners associations often overlap. They do not all say the same thing.
If you live within the Town of Lexington, you fall under local ordinances that address tree protection and site appearance. These rules focus on commercial development and subdivisions most of the time, but they can affect residential removal, especially near road rights of way or if you’re in a planned unit development. The county has separate rules that kick in for unincorporated areas, and they largely emphasize land disturbance, buffers, and trees preserved during development. Then there’s your HOA. Many neighborhoods in Lexington attached landscaping standards to their covenants during the building boom. Some require approvals for “significant” trees, usually defined by trunk diameter at breast height, or DBH, measured 4.5 feet above ground.
That leaves utilities. Dominion Energy and Mid-Carolina Electric cooperate with municipalities but set their own specifications for tree clearance around overhead lines. If you’re anywhere near a primary line, they have veto power over any pruning plan that creates a hazard or interferes with their right of way.
If you’re within Columbia city limits, expect stricter rules. A tree service in Columbia SC will be used to filing permits for street trees, meeting clearance requirements, and working around protected species categories. It is worth checking if your address falls inside annexed city boundaries where those standards apply. The one constant across all these jurisdictions is that removal inside your property line is generally permitted for hazardous or dead trees, as long as you follow notification procedures, keep debris out of the right of way, and protect nearby infrastructure.
How HOAs in Lexington look at trees
HOAs care about curb appeal and uniformity. Trees are a centerpiece in many master plans, especially in neighborhoods built since 2000. The rules are not always heavy-handed, but they can be strict about approvals, replacements, and the visual impact on the street.
I’ve seen covenants that require you to submit a simple form with a photo, a rough sketch, and a note from a licensed arborist stating the tree’s condition. Some boards move fast, approving within a week. Others meet monthly, and if you miss the agenda, you wait another 30 days. A homeowner on Wise Ferry Road once thought his HOA didn’t care because several neighbors removed pines after an ice storm. He cut a healthy oak near the sidewalk without notice and paid a penalty equal to a new tree, an installation fee, and a fine the board called “restoration.” Together it ran over $1,200, which was more than the tree service charged for the removal.
When an HOA asks for a replacement tree, they usually specify the species and size. A common requirement is a 2 to 3 inch caliper tree planted in the same general location, or a grouping of smaller ornamentals if space is tight. This matters for your budget and irrigation. Young trees need water, particularly in July and August. If a covenant calls for a live oak or willow oak replacement, you are signing up for a long-term canopy and a larger root system. If you pick a smaller species like a crape myrtle or a redbud, Tree Service the HOA may ask for more than one to balance the lost canopy.
HOAs also care about stumps. Leaving a tall stump in the front yard is a guaranteed letter. Grind it down to about 6 to 8 inches below grade and backfill with a topsoil mix to prevent a sink spot later. If you remove a tree near a sidewalk, ask your service to photograph any cracks or lifts before work starts. I’ve watched two disputes evaporate because the homeowner could show damage existed long before the removal.
When permits are necessary
Lexington County does not require a residential tree removal permit in most cases, but two situations trigger extra steps. The first is if you’re near a waterway or within a designated buffer. The second is if the tree sits in or adjacent to a right of way. In the Town of Lexington, that right of way is broader than many people assume. The strip from the curb in toward your yard might be maintained by you but controlled by the town.
Street trees that were originally planted by the developer and accepted by the town can be considered public trees. Removing one without coordination is not smart. The city or town may require you to apply for a right of way permit or at least obtain written approval. The form is usually short and asks for location, species, size, and reason. If the tree is dead or poses an imminent hazard, the process tends to move quickly.
Inside Columbia, a permit is commonly required for removing a street tree, and you might have to plant a replacement of a certain size. A lot of tree service companies keep the paperwork templates ready. If your property straddles a jurisdictional line, or you are not sure, ask the company to confirm. They do this every day and know who to call at the planning or public works office.
One more wrinkle comes with new construction or additions. If you disturb more than a set square footage, you might trigger a landscape plan review. That brings trees into the conversation automatically, including preserved specimen trees that carry additional protection. On a custom home I worked on near the dam, a 28 inch white oak was labeled “specimen” during site plan review. The owners could have removed it, but it would have required a formal variance and mitigation plantings. They adjusted the driveway layout instead and saved $3,000 in fees and plant costs.
Hazard trees, and how to prove it
Most neighborhoods relax when the word hazard appears with evidence. A hazard tree is one that is dead, dying, structurally unsound, or causing immediate damage to a structure that cannot be remedied by pruning. Evidence is the key. A letter from a certified arborist that cites specific defects goes a long way with an HOA board or a town planner.
Real defects are not vague. Look for fungal conks at the base, deep cracks that run through the trunk, heavy lean with soil heaving on the uphill side, or large cavities with decayed wood that crumbles under light probing. On pines, pitch tubes and extensive bark beetle galleries under the bark tell the story. On water oaks, a common Lexington species, you might see crown dieback and interior rot near old pruning wounds, especially on trees that grew fast in clay.
A photo set helps. I often send three angles, a close-up of the defect, and a tape measure on the trunk showing DBH. If the tree overhangs a roof, include a shot that shows the drip line relative to the structure. If sidewalks are lifting, put a level across the slab to show displacement. If utilities are involved, get the service provider to weigh in. Dominion Energy will note a clearance problem in writing if an overhang threatens their primary.
The case for pruning instead of removal
Cutting down a mature tree carries real costs. Shade disappears, turf suffers, your power bill climbs, and your house loses a windbreak. I’ve seen attic temperatures rise 10 to 15 degrees on August afternoons after a homeowner removed two large oaks on the west side of a house. Pruning can be a better answer if the tree is healthy but messy or sprawling. Elevating lower limbs to give 8 to 10 feet of clearance over roofs and driveways, thinning interior branches to let wind pass, and removing deadwood are all standard services.
Pruning has rules of its own. Many HOAs will not object to pruning that follows ANSI A300 standards, which call for proper cuts at branch collars, limits on how much live tissue you remove at once, and clear structural goals. A good crew will refuse to “lion tail” an oak or top a crape myrtle. The former weakens branch attachments and invites failure. The latter disfigures the tree and leads to a cycle of weak sprouts that must be hacked again and again.
If you choose pruning, ask the estimator to mark two or three key cuts before the crew starts. You’ll get a better sense of the end result, and they’ll understand your priorities. A well pruned tree reads as invisible work. You notice cleaner lines, more light, and better clearance, not the cuts themselves.
Neighborhood etiquette during removal
Tree work affects neighbors, sometimes for a full day. I learned early to knock on the adjacent doors the night before. If a crane is coming, or if a driveway will be partially blocked while branches are lowered, people appreciate a heads-up. It also reduces the chance of someone parking in the wrong place at 7 a.m. and delaying the job.
Noise is another point. Chainsaws and chippers are loud. In most Lexington neighborhoods, starting at 8 a.m. is accepted, but check your HOA’s quiet hours and the town’s noise ordinance. Crews that show up at first light can run afoul of a rule that begins at 7 or 8 a.m. A simple text to the crew leader can keep everyone in bounds.
Debris migration is a real thing on windy days. Chips can drift across the street, and sawdust will ride the air and settle on cars. Ask the crew to orient the chipper chute away from the road and use a tarp barrier if the driveway is close to the curb. It takes ten minutes and keeps the peace.
Utility clearance: lines, meters, and buried surprises
The visible power lines get everyone’s attention, and for good reason. If a tree is within 10 feet of a primary line, many tree service companies will not touch the upper canopy without the utility’s support crew on site. Dominion’s vegetation team can schedule line drops or assist with safe clearance cuts. If you’re near a service drop, the smaller line that feeds your home, a qualified crew can often proceed, but they’ll use insulated tools and specialized techniques to avoid contact.
Buried utilities are the hidden risk. Call 811 before any stump grinding or root excavation. In Lexington, locate tickets usually clear within three business days, and utilities mark lines with paint and flags. Gas, water, and telecom lines do not always run where you think. A grinder can shave right through a shallow fiber run. I watched a removal in Oak Grove cost an extra day and several hundred dollars because a telecom line ran only 6 inches deep where the stump would be ground. A 60-second ticket request could have prevented it.
Meters and backflow preventers also need clearance. Crews should shield them with plywood and traffic cones so no one drops a log nearby. If a large trunk must be felled near a driveway, ask for protection boards to prevent spalling. It costs little to do it right, and it spares you a repair later.
Species that draw extra attention in Lexington
Certain trees cause predictable issues here. Water oaks and laurel oaks grow fast in our clay, often with shallow roots and internal rot by middle age. When a water oak hits 24 to 30 inches DBH and shows dieback, I look hard at structure. Loblolly pines can live long and straight, but when they lean or when beetles set in, they fail quickly. Bradford pears split during wind events. Many HOAs have quietly encouraged their removal because repeated storm damage cost the neighborhood money.
On the other hand, some oaks, like live oaks and white oaks, hold value as anchor trees. Crews treat them carefully, and HOAs often prefer pruning to removal unless the tree is clearly failing. Longleaf pines, although less common in residential neighborhoods than loblolly, usually stand straighter and fare better in storms. If you have a healthy longleaf, keep it. It carries wildlife and aesthetic benefits and causes fewer limb drop headaches.
Crepe myrtles deserve a mention. They are the most over-pruned trees in the Midlands. If yours are overgrown, selective reduction cuts can lower the canopy and keep the natural structure. Resist topping. It invites disease and ruins the winter silhouette.
How cost really works
Homeowners like clear numbers. Tree work rarely offers them until someone sees the site. The price reflects risk, access, complexity, and disposal. Two similar oaks on paper can be 40 percent apart because one leans over a roof with a fence and pool below, and the other stands in an open yard with a straight drop zone.
As a rough guide from recent jobs in Lexington, small ornamental removals might run $300 to $600, mid-size trees in open yards $800 to $1,800, and large canopy trees over structures $2,000 to $5,000 or more. Crane work adds cost, but sometimes reduces labor hours and overall risk, so the total can balance out. Stump grinding is often priced separately, say $8 to $15 per inch of stump diameter, with a minimum charge. Hauling away logs and chips is included in many quotes, but not all. Clarify what stays and what goes.
Insurance matters. Verify the company has general liability and workers’ compensation that covers tree work, not just landscaping. Ask for a certificate. You will never notice the difference until something goes wrong, and then it’s all you notice.
Timing the work around Lexington weather
Our weather swings dictate scheduling. Spring and fall are popular because crews avoid the worst heat and thunderstorms, and homeowners want the yard tidy before or after the growing season. Summer brings daily pop-up storms, which complicate crane scheduling and make bucket work stop-and-go. Winter is ideal for pruning many species and for removals where you can see structure clearly without leaves. Ice is the wildcard. After a January ice event, crews book out for weeks. If you know a tree needs to come down, don’t wait for the first cold snap to call. Get on the calendar early.
Soils matter too. Many Lexington yards sit on red clay that turns to soup after a heavy rain. Heavy equipment can rut a yard in an hour. If you’re worried about turf, ask for ground protection mats. They spread the load and save you from a scar that lasts half a season. It’s a line item worth paying for if your sod is new or you have a steep grade.
Documenting your decisions
Good records protect you. Before you remove a tree, take photos from the street, both property lines, and the base of the trunk. If you have an arborist’s note, save the PDF and forward it to your HOA with the request. Keep their approval email, not just a verbal okay from a board member at the pool. If the tree is adjacent to a right of way, note the distance to the curb or sidewalk and keep the town’s approval letter on hand.
After the job, snap shots of the cleaned area, the ground where the stump was ground, and any protected features like irrigation heads that are still intact. If a neighbor questions what happened or claims debris blew into their yard, you can show that the site was tidy when the crew left. It lowers the temperature and keeps relationships friendly.
When to call a pro, and what to ask
Plenty of homeowners in Lexington handle small removals themselves. A 6 inch ornamental away from the house is within reach for a careful DIYer. Beyond that, the calculus changes quickly. Climbing cuts, rigging, and safe felling angles require training, especially near structures or lines. A credible tree service brings ropes, friction devices, pulleys, and a practiced team that communicates on headsets and understands how to control forces. That costs money, but it also manages risk.
When you’re choosing a company, ask three questions that tell you more than a dozen generic ones.
- Who will be on site, and is there a crew leader I can talk to before the first cut? How will you protect my property, including lawn, hardscape, and irrigation? If something changes mid-job, who decides, and will you show me before you proceed?
Clear answers here tell you a lot about process, accountability, and respect for your space. If the estimator shrugs or says “don’t worry about it,” keep calling. The best crews are proud to explain how they work.
Special cases: lakefront lots and narrow access
On lakefront properties around Lake Murray, rear access is often tight. Bulkheads, steep slopes, and limited staging areas complicate removal. Water delivery for cranes is not practical, and barges are expensive for residential work. Most crews will rig pieces and walk them out in smaller sections. That takes longer, so the cost rises. It also raises the stakes for ground protection and debris management to keep chips off the neighbor’s lot and out of the cove.
Flag lots and cul-de-sacs present the opposite problem: long, narrow driveways with low limbs and tight turn radiuses. Measure your gate opening. If a chip truck cannot get through, the crew might shuttle debris with a mini skid steer, which adds time. If you have a new stamped concrete driveway, tell the estimator. They’ll plan to place plywood where the skid steers cross and may shift where the chipper sits to reduce turning on the surface.
Replacement trees that do well here
If your HOA asks for a replacement, or if you simply want to restore canopy, choose species that handle Midlands heat, clay, and the occasional storm. Live oaks perform well in full sun with room to grow. White oaks are stately but need space to reach their bones. Smaller options include serviceberry, redbud, and fringetree for spring bloom without heavy maintenance. For shade that matures faster without overreaching, consider a willow oak only if you accept its scale, or a shumard oak for a bit more restraint.
Plant in fall or early winter so roots establish before summer heat. Dig the hole twice as wide as the root ball, not deeper. Set the flare at or slightly above grade, cut away wire and burlap from the top third of the ball, and stake only if the site is windy. Water deeply, once or twice a week, for the first growing season. Mulch with a 2 to 3 inch layer, but keep it off the trunk. Volcano mulching shortens tree life and invites pests.
A smart workflow for homeowners
If you need a practical, light-touch process that works in most Lexington neighborhoods, try this.
- Confirm your jurisdiction and review HOA rules. Note any approval thresholds tied to trunk diameter or street trees. Photograph the tree and surrounding area, then get a brief assessment from a certified arborist if hazard is a factor. Talk to at least two tree service companies. Ask about protection plans, cleanup, and utility coordination. Verify insurance. Submit any required HOA or town paperwork with photos and the arborist note. Ask for written approval and keep it. Schedule the work with attention to weather and access. Mark irrigation, call 811 if grinding, and notify neighbors a day in advance.
This is the path of least resistance. It respects the rules, anticipates the friction points, and keeps you in control.
The value of local knowledge
Tree work is local. A tree service in Columbia SC knows Gervais Street trees and Five Points alleys, but they also work across the river every day and understand Lexington’s HOAs, clay soils, and summer storms. A company based in Lexington knows which neighborhoods are tolerant of early starts, which boards insist on replacement trees, and which streets get a ticket quickly when debris sits too long at the curb. They also know how to navigate Dominion’s vegetation department and when to request a line drop versus a scheduled trim.
There is no substitute for this lived knowledge. It shows up in the way a crew stages their trucks on a cul-de-sac, the way they guard a neighbor’s newly sealed driveway even though it’s not part of the scope, and the way they phrase a note to an HOA when a tree clearly needs to go.
What happens if you get it wrong
Mistakes cost money and goodwill. Removing a healthy street tree without approval can lead to fines and a replacement requirement that is more expensive than the removal was. Damaging a sidewalk or curb can trigger a repair notice from the town. Dropping a trunk on a neighbor’s fence is a quick way to test your insurance. The most painful errors I see start with assumptions: assuming your property line extends to the curb, assuming the HOA won’t care, assuming there are no lines under the stump.
If you inherit a mess, own it quickly. Tell the board what happened, propose a reasonable remedy, and, if necessary, offer to plant an appropriate replacement. If a neighbor is upset, show them your photos, explain the plan, and fix what needs fixing. Most people respond to a respectful tone and a clear plan.
Bringing it all together
Tree removal is not just a transaction. It intersects with safety, community standards, and the character of a neighborhood. The rules in Lexington are not designed to stop you from protecting your home. They are there to keep the streets lined, the utilities safe, and the process predictable. Know which rules apply to your address, document your reasoning, involve the right people, and hire a reputable tree service that treats your property like their own. You’ll get through the work with fewer surprises, your HOA will nod rather than scold, and your yard will be set up for the next season rather than scarred by this one.